Routes to Ride: Graaf-Reinet

Karoo 'big sky country' around South Africa's fourth oldest town is gravel heaven – diverse terrain, some challenging climbs, and the opportunity to ride through wildlife.

My first experience with Graaff-Reinet was in 2017, and even before I was an avid cyclist, I was captivated by its vastness. It's truly 'big sky country'. It wasn't until 2021 that I began riding here and quickly discovered the area's secret: while Strava might suggest it's an unpopular spot, it is in fact a hidden paradise for gravel bikers.

This area feels purpose-built for gravel bikes. The terrain is neither technical enough to require a mountain bike nor smooth enough for a road bike, creating the perfect challenge for a gravel setup. The diversity is remarkable: you can find everything from steep, rewarding climbs on gravel and quiet tar roads to epic 100km+ loops on fast, compacted jeep track.

The landscape also offers a unique training benefit. Starting at a relatively low point of 770m in Graaff-Reinet, many routes climb to altitudes of over 2,000m, making the area ideally suited for mild elevation training.

In short, it's a gravel heaven. The appeal is enhanced by the opportunity for game viewing on the flat, non-technical single tracks of the local national park, which are easily manageable on a gravel bike.

What truly sets this area apart, however, is the lack of traffic and non-predator wildlife. Located far from major metropolitan areas, with a national highway bypassing the surrounding routes, you can ride for hours – even 100km or more – without seeing another human. This, combined with the generally good condition of the gravel roads year-round, provides an unmatched sense of freedom and solitude. The landscape feels like it was made just for us.

Favourite rides

The Safari Loop. This is a truly special ride that highlights what makes Graaff-Reinet so unique. It's an easy 25km loop with 300m of elevation gain through the Camdeboo National Park, which virtually surrounds the town. The park has made a great effort to accommodate cyclists with a dedicated permit, allowing you to ride officially with antelope and other wildlife just metres away, and there's been some great development of smaller, gravel-bike-friendly mountain-bike trails too. This route is suitable for any skill of rider.

The Ouberg and the Valley. For a bit more of a challenge, this is a 66km ride with 1,500m of elevation. You climb northwest out of town into the Camdeboo National Park, where you tackle the Roodewal Loop on a section of private land known as Ouberg. The private road starts off smooth and fast before becoming a long, rocky and technical climb up to the top of Ouberg. Keep an eye out for giraffes in this area – they are usually docile, but it's still wise to be cautious. Remember, this is private land, so permission is required for access.

At the summit, the route turns back towards Graaff-Reinet. This exposed section can be very fast – and also very windy. You enter the national park again on a jeep track then turn towards the Valley of Desolation viewpoint. It's a challenging climb up a tar road to the top, but the views make it worth the effort. This is the highlight of the ride! From the top back into Graaff-Reinet is a 14km downhill. So technically it's an 80km route but the work is done at the top.

The Road to Desolation. For the big days, which this area is perfectly suited for, my absolute favourite is the Road to Desolation. This is a challenging 180km route with 2,800m of elevation, which I curated after two years of exploring the region. It's an incredible test of endurance, offering the sheer endless straights and rewarding climbs the area is known for.

About 3km northeast of Graaff-Reinet, you'll turn right onto a gravel road. The first 40km have a gradual incline, so be prepared for a long climb. You'll go up Erasmuskloof to reach Conical Peak with 1,622m elevation at the 41km mark, a great place to stop and refuel. After about 20km of rolling downhill terrain on some loose gravel, you briefly transition to tar as you cross the N9, before tackling a challenging climb up Witnekpas. The reward is a fast 10km descent on some of the country's smoothest gravel, leading you into the charming town of Nieu-Bethesda at 108km. This is an excellent spot to refuel and a perfect place for family and friends to meet you for breakfast before you continue. It's also a good overnight stop if you're looking for a two-day bikepacking adventure.

From Nieu-Bethesda, a short, steep climb out of the valley leads to Riverdene Farm, and a 40km rolling stretch of road. At 154km, you'll turn left onto the tarred R63 towards Graaff-Reinet. This section is exposed, so be prepared for potentially strong winds.

Around the 172km mark, turn right into the national park and follow the road leading to the Valley of Desolation. The road climbs relentlessly to the summit, but the stunning view over Graaff-Reinet below is the perfect reward. From the top, you have an additional 14km descent back into town.

"The terrain here is simply not technical enough to justify a mountain bike, yet it's far too rugged for a road bike. This perfect middle ground is what makes it feel so uniquely suited to gravel riding"

A loop around Compassberg. Another hidden gem is a loop around Compassberg, which is the highest mountain outside of the Drakensberg range in South Africa. This route takes you through the Sneeuberg Nature Conservancy, where you'll be treated to a variety of wildlife and great climbs and descents.

The ideal starting and finishing point is the beautiful village of Nieu-Bethesda. Do the loop as a day trip, or add it to a multi-day bikepacking trip from Graaff-Reinet with a stopover in Nieu-Bethesda. There are plenty of accommodation options for all budgets.

The ride itself is a thrilling challenge. You'll climb out of Nieu-Bethesda and crest Owl Hill before turning left twice towards Leeukop, which sits at 1,846m. The air can get quite thin up there!

From Leeukop, you'll enjoy a fun, gradual descent before turning left again to head back toward Nieu-Bethesda, with the magnificent Compassberg always in sight. The route features a 20km climb to crest Kom Pass, the highest point on the route with 1,894m, and the subsequent descent requires you to be careful of exposed rocks.

After one final climb, you'll roll the last 4km downhill back into Nieu-Bethesda. Don't let the distance fool you – this is a demanding ride. The entire route is on gravel, and you'll be riding at a decent elevation for most of the day.

Fuelling options

Within Graaff-Reinet itself, there are plenty of great options for a pre-ride coffee or a post-ride meal. However, once you leave the town limits, you are truly out in the wild. The remote nature of the area is a huge part of its appeal, so you must be self-sufficient and plan accordingly.

The most reliable chance for a mid-ride refill is in Nieu Bethesda. Here, you'll find a range of pitstops, from local spaza shops to more formal sit-down restaurants and even a unique brewery.

Bike talk

For this terrain, my bike depends on the ride. I use a Standert Erdgeschoss for bikepacking and general exploring, while my Standert Kettensäge is reserved for racing. When it comes to the setup, I've found that adaptability is key. I highly recommend using 50mm tyres if your frame allows, as the terrain's variability makes a wider tyre crucial for both safety and comfort.

A 1x drivetrain is more than sufficient for the area's diverse routes, but I would advise a mullet setup for the best range. The ideal chainring size depends on your riding style: a 46T or 48T is a good choice for racers, while a 40T or 42T paired with a wide-range 10-52T cassette is perfect for weekend warriors who want to tackle the climbs without burning out.

Hydration and nutrition are non-negotiable, especially on longer rides between early October and late March. Temperatures can soar to 40°C, and strong winds and sudden thunderstorms are common. For longer journeys, a minimum of two large water bottles, plus a hydration pack, is a must. You should also carry enough nutrition for at least 4-5 hours to ensure you're self-sufficient out in the remote landscapes.