The edge of wild

The Groot Winterhoek range above Porterville must surely rate as one of South Africa's most under-utilised mountain biking destinations. This is about to change with the local Berg Rivier Tourism Region's initiative, a "Wines to Wilderness' Route.

BY JACQUES MARAIS

Porterville comes across as just another country dorp when you cruise from the surrounding wheatfields into the wide and tree-lined main road. There's a SPAR and a good butchery. the standard small-town coffee shops (Koppi-koff) and pubs (Akkediskis), and- as usual - a church with a towering spire.

Once you start exploring the town, a whole bunch of hidden secrets is unearthed. Dozens of artists have moved here to escape the rat race, with everything from potters and painters to crazy-good mosaic ladies hidden away along the shady and languorous back roads. It is beyond the urban edge where the real adventure starts, though.

The village lies within the shadow of the rugged Winterhoek range, and if you decide to meander up Dasklip Pass, you will discover one of the Western Cape's truly wild places: the Groat Winterhook conservation area.

Right now, the Wines Wilderness Route is a "mountain biking dreamin progress, but do not let this put you off from exploring the Berg River Region. Read on and you'll find out how to navigate those rambunctious back roads on your bike, all while discovering how all the various trail nodes fit together.

WINES

You aways need a good spot from which to start an adventure, and what better place could you wish for than a wine estate with award-winning food? Piekenierskloof Wines slumbers atop the eponymous pass, just beyond the Paleisheuwel tum-off. This is also the area where the Rooibos- to-Muisbos MTB Challenge kicks off. The Paleisheuwel road-traversing the spine of the mountain range-descends steeply westwards towards the coast, and would make for a fast roadie-style ride if that is your cup of herbal tea...

A speedy 32km T-bones you onto the R365, where you turn right to Sandberg and Leipoldtville. These back roads are generally quiet, but look out for agri-traffic (tractors and Isuzu bakkies) as you cruise the 86km to Lamberts Bay.

Yeah, I know, you brought your MTB, and don't feel like tar. Here's what you do: right where the Paleisheuwel Road junctions with the N7 is an access point where you can get onto the old Piekenierskloof Pass, basically following the curves of the N7. Pin your ears back and follow your front wheel!

Some navigation will be required to get you through the farm roads at the base of the Winterhoek mountains, but if all else fails you can follow the R365 back in the direction of Porterville for around 70km in the saddle.

A few avid mountain bikers in the area are working hard to gain open access to a recreational MTB route, and the negotiations with local farmers will hopefully pay off.

22 WATERVALLE

You definitely do not want to miss the 22 Waterfalls Private Nature Reserve where, you've guessed it - you can view 22 spectacular cascades. Your first trail node is the 22 Waterfalls Camp Site, approximately 5km out of town. It makes sense to camp overnight if you want to add their 15km MTB trail to your tick box, but the real gem is the 4-5 hour hiking route past those waterfalls.

The mountain biking route is rather rough- and-ready, with lots of loose stones and sharp comers blitzing along the mountain side. Some pushing may be required here and there, but the higher (and rather technical) Red Route eventually gets you onto a kickass section of the trail berming via the lush indigenous forest and to one of the most beautiful cascades. Well worth it.

BEAVERLAC

Dasklip Pass slashes skywards along the ridges about 10km north of the village, and near the summit is where you will discover Beaverlac, one of the Cape's original eco- adventure retreats. Part working farm and private nature reserve, the 450ha property unfolds along the upper reaches of the Ratel River. This fast-flowing tributary joins the Olifants approximately 8km below the camp site, and the many pools and waterfalls lie at the heart of your Beaverlac experience.

First you need to get there, though. From 22 Waterfalls, roll for 4km back to the R365 and turn right. Pay attention, because after 2km you turn right again at a sign to Dasklip Pass, this time onto a gravel road, with a turn-off to the pass itself (on tar) 16km into your ride.

Dasklip is a pretty cool climb, if steep in places, with exceptional views over the Sandveld farmland to the west. You eventually reach the Beaverlac turn-off after a solid 7km ascent, with a steep 4km drop into the camp site to follow. Pitch your tent and get ready to explore: I suggest a swim at either Secret or Main Pool to get rid of the dust.

Two main route options await from the camping area, so head out over the concrete causeway crossing the Ratel. The Yellowfish/Flatrock/Africa Cottage option bears left immediately, passing a big shed before tripping into Beaverlac's wild heart.

You could explore by bike along the short Flatrock Trail should you have the technical skills, or otherwise head into the hills towards the course of the upper Olifants along a sandy 2km stretch (and boy, is it worthwhile)! The main gravel road continues slip-sliding amidst the incredible Stone Temple landscape, passing Africa Cottage 7km into the ride.

Unfortunately, a gate signifies the start of a neighbouring farm after a further 1.5km, with the crossing through the scenic Olifants River only a tantalising kilometre away. There's a R500 fine for ignoring the sign, and I'm nearly of the opinion that you should bite the bullet and pay it, it is so beautiful. Maybe it's best not to make the farmers angry, though; if they opened up this route to riders, you'd be able to pedal all the way to Citrusdal from Beaverlac.

There is also the steeper and more eroded 'Extension Road' if you turn right after the Ratel River causeway. This heads into high ground via Old Testament rockscapes and - if you are going to be lucky enough to bump into klipspringers, lynx or Cape mountain leopard (it can happen!) - this is where you need to keep your eyes wide open. We spotted three black eagles, and countless other bird species.

WILDERNESS

The Groot Winterhoek Reserve is situated 12km from the Beaverlac turn-off, so this makes for a 32km return ride to this vast wilderness area should you have the energy to go and partake in one of their many day hikes. It truly is a mind-blowing outdoor arena.

There is also Pampoenfontein and the unparalleled Ginsmiths, a local distillery crafting award-winning gins. It's not easy to find, but if you book a tasting in good time, they will explain exactly how to get there off the Groot Winterhoek access road. The taste sensation comes packaged with oodles of peace and tranquillity ... just saying!

ESSENTIAL INFO

WHEN TO GO

Plan your getaway to the Groot Winterhoek wilderness well in advance, as only a limited number of hikers are allowed into the reserve at any specific time. Both Beaverlac and 22 Waterfalls must also be booked well in advance to ensure you get space, with day visitors strictly limited. Keep in mind that heavy downpours and frequent snowfalls may occur from May to September; it is a mountain wilderness, and the climate can be extreme.

WHERE TO STAY

Beaverlac boasts camping and very basic cabins right

within the heart of the Olifants River catchment. Remember to pack all the essentials. beaverlac.co.za

22 Waterfalls has chalets, cottages and camping sites (some with electricity). 22waterfalls.com.

Akkediskis Guest House, situated on the main road in Porterville, has comfortable rooms and warm hospitality. Breakfast is served and other meals can be arranged at additional cost. facebook.com/akkediskis/

Villa-Cho-Co-Latt Guest House offers luxury 4-star accommodation. The restaurant has an extensive menu featuring traditional South African dishes as well as delicious pizzas which are prepared and baked on the stoep. villachocolattguesthouse.co.za